In the footsteps of Walter Benjamin and of the Retirada
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In the footsteps of Walter Benjamin and of the Retirada
BANYULS SUR MER

In the footsteps of Walter Benjamin and of the Retirada

Flora
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In the footsteps of Walter Benjamin and the exiles of the Retirada. Magnificent views await you.

Superb hike between vineyards and magnificent viewpoints crossing the ridges of Banyuls-sur-Mer and Cerbère to the typical seaside resort of Port-Bou in Spain. It is also very moving because we follow in the footsteps of Walter Benjamin, a Jewish philosopher who died in Port-Bou in 1940, when he was fleeing the Nazi regime, just like many exiles. Many Spanish refugees also took these paths in the opposite direction during "la Retirada" in 1939 to escape the Franco regime.


3 points of interest

  • History

    Lisa and Hans Fittko Memorial

    Lisa Fittko, born Elizabeth Eckstein, was a resistance fighter, writer, and socialist activist, born on August 23, 1909, in Austria-Hungary, and passed away on March 12, 2005, in Chicago. She authored two memoirs about the war in Europe.  

    An anti-fascist activist, she sought to escape to Spain and made her way to Banyuls-sur-Mer, where she helped establish the "F" network (for Fittko), a passage route to Spain that operated until the spring of 1941. This network saved several hundred people, including the philosopher Walter Benjamin, who reached Port Bou. Unfortunately, Benjamin took his own life there. A beautiful memorial dedicated to him is located next to the Port-Bou cemetery.
  • Musée Maillol

    Aristide Maillol did his first work at Banyuls-sur-Mer. The sculptures of female bodies with generous curves, which have been a great success, have been imagined and created here, in his house "La Métairie". Died in 1944, it is in the garden of his house that he rests today, it’s a museum open to the public. We can see his tomb (free access) adorned with the statue of the artist "The Mediterranean".!
  • Peak

    Torn's Peak

    Peak located at 664 meters altitude.

Description

You have two options for this hike, either do it in its entirety and take the train to Port-Bou for the return trip, or go as far as the Col des Bélistres to go down to Cerbère and take the shuttle (line 546) to 1€ for the return trip to Banyuls-sur-mer.

1. Go left out of the car park, at the level of the bridge, go left on avenue Pierre de Marca. Arrive at Place Abel Pagès, go to the Lisa and Hans Fittko memorial.

2. Continue on Boulevard des Evadés de France.

3. Descend a few steps, cross the bed of the Vall Auger river.

4. Continue on the paved road which passes near Mas Guillaume (13th century mas seigneurial) to reach Col del Bast.

5. Take the path opposite which rises in the hill

6. From the Col de Rumpissar, take the ridge path on the left towards the Querroig tower, continue towards the Col de la Fareille and the Col des Bélistres

7. At the pass, turn left towards Port-Bou on the GR-92.

8. After the tourist information point, continue on the rambla and take the street on the right after the restaurant "Voramar. Then take the first street on the left and climb the stairs to the pujada del Mirador again on the left. Arrival at the Walter Benjamin Memorial.

You have two options for this hike, either do it in its entirety and take the train to Port-Bou for the return trip, or go as far as the Col des Bélitres to go down to Cerbère and take the shuttle (line 546) to 1€ for the return trip to Banyuls-sur-mer.

  • Departure : Baillaury car park/Banyuls-sur-Mer
  • Arrival : Mémorial Walter Benjamin / Port-Bou
  • Towns crossed : BANYULS SUR MER and CERBERE

Altimetric profile


Recommandations

Bring good hydration and a picnic for this hike, which is a bit long and difficult in places. Hat and windbreaker are required. Watch the weather forecast before you go. Be sure to bring back your rubbish.

Respect the nature!


Transport

Bus 1€, ligne 540,
Navette 1€ ligne 546
train à Port-Bou.

Access and parking

D914

Parking :

Baillaury car park